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Paris & London/Chelsea Flower Show
May 17-26, 2008 Tour
May 20, Day 4.
Today, a full day excursion to Giverny, where Claude Monet lived and worked
during the last (and most productive) part of his life. His house and
gardens remain, known as the Foundation Claude Monet, and everywhere you
look is a familiar garden scene you have seen in countless artwork.
http://giverny.org/gardens/fcm/stanford/
“If, I can someday see M. Claude Monet's garden, I feel sure that I shall
see something that is not so much a garden of flowers as of colours and
tones, less an old-fashioned flower garden than a colour garden, so to
speak, one that achieves an effect not entirely nature's, because it was
planted so that only the flowers with matching colours will bloom at the
same time, harmonized in an infinite stretch of blue or pink."
The house, with its pink roughcast façade, where the leader of the
Impressionist School lived from 1883 to 1926, once again has the colourful
decor and intimate charm of former times. The precious collection of
Japanese engravings is displayed in several rooms, as the master of Giverny
himself had chosen to. The huge Nympheas studio, a stone's throw from the
house, has also been restored. It houses the Foundation's Shop. The gardens
have been replanted as they once were and offer for the admiration of
visitors the "painting from nature" which Claude Monet's contemporaries
considered one of his masterpieces. The rectangular Clos Normand, with
archways of climbing plants entwined around brilliantly coloured shrubs,
lays varying colours of the painter-gardener who was "ecstatic about
flowers". Lastly, the Water Garden, formed by a tributary of the Epte, lies
further away, shaded by weeping willows. With its famous Japanese Bridge,
its wisterias, azaleas and its pond, it has once more become that setting of
sky and water which inspired the pictorial universe of the water
lilies….stunning!
After visiting the gift shop we are lead out the back way which just happens
to be the way to the Hotel Baudy and further on the church where Monet is
buried. This lane is so beautiful, on either side profusions of iris and
roses all the way, I would think for a good two to three blocks. There are
little shops and places to sit and drink and each one has its own garden
brimming with plants. Along this way there is a garden that belongs to the
Musee d/Art Americain Giverny presenting the unique collection of the Terra
Foundation for the Arts, in a setting that calls to mind the Impressionists
landscapes painted by American artists in France during the time of Claude
Monet. The gardens are ‘rooms’ each containing different types of plants and
was really a delightful surprise to see.
and then the Hotel Baudy Rose Garden for Lunch.
‘In the Spring of 1886, the American painter William Metcalf appears in the
doorway of Angelina and Gaston Baudy’s cafe and grocer’s shop in Giverny. He
is looking for a room to rent, but the lady of the house does not have any,
and besides, as she told later, this tall fellow, who looks like a tramp and
speaks gibberish, makes her nervous. He returns a few days later though,
along with three other Americans - painters like him. Madame Baudy cooks
them a meal, and even offers them her room. They are amazed to hear that
Claude Monet, the impressionist master, lives but a few yards away. He in
fact asks them over and treats them to lunch. Back to Academie Julian, in
Paris, they are enthusiastic: Claude Monet lives in Giverny. That’s a small
village in Normandy with a boarding house where you get room and board at
incredibly low prices !. From then on, hordes of young and bearded merry
young men jump off the local train every week-end. It is the rush to the
cafe and grocer’s shop in Giverny. A first painter’s workshop is set up in
the garden, soon to be followed by two more. Now the boarding house has
become Hotel Baudy, where one has fun late into the night, where walls get
covered with paintings, tokens of friendship... or of payment. Renoir,
Rodin, Sisley, Pissaro, stay at the hotel. Monet and Clemenceau are often
seen talking together for hours in the park. However, the majority of
patrons are painters from over the Ocean : Metcalf, Sargent, Robinson,Hart,
Butler, Beckwith, Watson, Young, Mc Monnies, Frieseke, Mary Cassat, Collins,
Perry... and so many others that the hotel eventually becomes known as the
American Painters Hotel.
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