Although, grapes are usually associated with warm climates and long growing seasons certain varieties grow well in Alberta. ‘Beta’ the oldest variety has been surpassed in quality, and production by ‘Valiant’. These grapes make great jam, moderate wine and delicious fruit leather. Both varieties are fairly acidic with large seeds and are not recommended to eat fresh. 
Valiant and Beta were developed from crosses using the wild grape Vitis reparia. Seedlings were then selected that: were hardy, had edible fruit, and matured early.
‘Steuben’ is relatively knew to the market. It produces larger green grapes but needs a longer season to mature.
Plant research is ongoing hopefully new varieties will be on the market soon. At present time these are the best of the, hardy, short season grapes that are on the market. "Fedonia’, ‘Foch’, ’Dechaunac’, and ‘Vidal’ are names attached to grapes that have grown at Olds College for a number of years, but aren’t sold locally at present time.
Before purchasing any grape vines, amend the soil to ensure it is well drained and high in humus. As grapes aren’t heavy feeders a yearly top dressing of compost or well-rotted manure should supply all the nutrients needed. 
Spring, before they leaf out, is the best time to plant grapes. The vines can become fairly large and should be planted 5 to 12 feet (1.5 - 3.5 M) apart. Grapes do best when the soil depth is consistent; plant the root at the same soil depth as in the pot. Dig a hole at the appropriate depth and twice as wide as the pot. Place the root ball in the hole and spread out the roots. Back fill with soil and water well. It is important not to let the root ball dry out until its roots are well established.
Once the plant starts producing fruit, moisture must be readily available to ensure the fruit develops fast and is of good quality.
Grapes are pruned in a number of different styles. The Fan method is recommended for grapes that need winter protection. 
Prune the new vine back to one stem and 2 or 3 buds to encourage a few strong shoots. In the fall, or next spring prune the two shoots back leaving 2 outward facing buds on each shoot. In the third year allow the 4 new shoots to grow upward, attaching them to a trellis. In the fall, or spring prune them back leaving 4 or 5 buds per cane or shoot. 
It is important to always keep 4 or 5 buds of the current year’s growth on each cane. These buds produce new vines in the spring that produce the fruit. Grapes, like all fruit, mature faster if the fruit is removed until the plant is 5 or 6 years old. 
Each year excessive growth needs to be pruned off allowing the plant's energy to produce fruit not leaves.
Vines that are not pruned produce fruit, but not as much as ones that are pruned regularly.
Not all gardeners cover their vines for the winter. It they are located in a very sheltered location they may make it with little winter kill. Not providing extra protection is risky, as the fruit is produced on new wood that grows from last years buds. If last year's buds die, there won’t be any fruit the following season. 
The extra care needed to ensure that the grape vines make it through the winter without any die back is minimal. Vines should be taken off the trellises and laid flat on the ground. Covering the vines with 6 - 8 in. (15 - 20 cm) of soil or mulch is usually enough to protect them from the harsh winter temperatures. In April when all danger of low temperatures is passed, the mulch can be removed the vines reattached to the trellises.
Gardeners who are not interested in the fruit should grow grapes for the attractive foliage. The vines grow rapidly covering arbors and trellises.