 In the northeast corner of my backyard is an area that receives plenty of sun. This particular site would be terrific for a vegetable plot, but it sits at the base of a large hill and takes forever to dry out and heat up. So this spring, when the threat of frost has passed, I'm going to build a raised bed and see what I can grow.
A raised bed is essentially an enormous container garden, built up off the ground using concrete blocks, stones, bricks, or wood and filled with topsoil, compost, and fertilizer. Because it's above ground, this type of garden heats up faster and drains more quickly, providing ideal growing conditions.
It also allows easy access for gardeners with physical disabilities. Many flower and vegetable gardeners swear by them for productivity and trouble-free maintenance.
If you don't have access to building materials you can create a raised bed using a group of half barrels or tubs, as long as they drain well. Or make a temporary raised bed by digging a three- to four-foot wide trench and adding enough soil to raise it higher than the surrounding earth.
Your temporary bed will flatten over the course of the growing season as the soil erodes. It will need to be reconstructed the following year, but if there is very little foot traffic around the site it should do the job.
Avoid using railroad ties to frame your bed. These are treated with creosote, and that chemical will leach into your soil and harm your plants.
Most vegetables will need up to 12 inches for rooting, but the deeper you can make your bed, the better. You can till deep into the soil at the existing grade to provide some extra volume, or you can build your bed somewhat higher than a foot.
Many gardening books and Internet sites are devoted to constructing raised beds. Take the time to do a little research; it will come in handy.
If you are constructing more than one raised bed, be sure to leave room between beds for wheelbarrow traffic and other garden equipment. A two- to three-foot walkway is adequate.
You also can create seating on the edges of your beds or fit ramps to the beds to avoid heavy lifting. Site your raised garden in a sunny spot to give your vegetables and ornamentals at least six hours of sunlight each day.
Fill your raised bed with good quality loam and supplement it with compost, fertilizer, and manure (especially if your soil is high in clay or sand). Mix soil amendments into the existing dirt to avoid creating layers of soil.
Because this elevated earth dries out faster than surrounding soil, you'll need to keep an eye on irrigation. It's important to keep the soil in the beds level so that one end of the garden doesn't become dried out. Mulching with straw, hay, shredded leaves, or landscape fabric will help conserve moisture, as will soaker hoses and drip irrigation on the bed.
When the growing season is over, simply till plant remnants back into the ground to add more organic matter. Top it off with a little compost. And don't forget to test your soil the following year before you begin planting to determine what types of nutrients are missing.
Diana Lawrence is an
Extension Master Gardener with the
University of Vermont
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